Croatia Day 3: war and peace

We packed up early this morning, said good-bye to Zagreb, and headed out to Plitivice Lakes in our remarkably comfortable Peugot rental car. It took about two hours to get there – and that’s including our wandering through a Croatian forest because our GPS was confused. Bug was not amused.

But, oh! It was worth it. We parked, ate a tasty lunch, and began our descent into Plitivice. I wish I could get the photos off our camera, but I left my computer at home. The colors were amazing, as was the roar of the water, and the mist that settled around us. It was like stepping back in time – except with many other people. 


We had hiked about half-way through the park when rain hit. Bug, being the smart guy he is, had packed umbrellas for each of us. So while everyone else ran for cover, we meander through the park and to the boat launch. We hopped on board a boat, and headed back to station 1.


From there, we had to wait 20 minutes for a tram and, sadly, had to take out groups of pushy elderly tourists to get on board. 

I will say this, while Plitivice is gorgeous, it was overrun with tour groups. Thankfully, most seemed to disappear after the big waterfall. Also, wth Americans? Strollers, throngs of people, and wooden boardwalks don’t mix. This is a prime spot to invest in a baby carrier. I only say this because I saw at least three sets of American parents trying to navigate the endless stairs in frustration. Plitivice is NOT disablility or stroller friendly. It’s too crowded, narrow, and has too many stairs. 

Okay, back to the day’s adventure. 

After making our way back to our car, we headed off to Skradin for the night. It was a two hour drive through an ever changing landscape of mountains, plains, rivers, and rolling hills. Our hostess, Iva, had sent me specific directions which was excellent because her apartment is tough to find. 

When we arrived, homemade rose liquor and fig strudel awaited us. It was a welcome treat after our long drive and day of hiking. But we didn’t stay long before heading out to dinner. We ate at Bonaca near the harbor in Skradin. For desert, Keegan ordered a sorbet. He got a champagne fizz…and promptly traded Bug for his cake. For what it’s worth, it was the most expensive meal we’ve had here, and also our least favorite. Still, it was good, just not great. 


Upon arriving back at the apartment, Bug and I took in the view from the terrace. That’s the lake in the background. 


But the site I can’t get over is this: 


That’s the front door, riddled with bullet holes from the War. As we travel around this beautiful country full of generous, happy, kind people, it’s difficult to wrap my brain around what happened here 25 years ago. It seems impossible such devastation and hatred could hit such a lovely place full of welcoming people.

But it did. 

And this door, it made it all real. 

xoxo – dawn

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3 thoughts on “Croatia Day 3: war and peace

  1. Awh my beautiful country ❤ I was thinking of getting married on those lakes, they make amazing weddings there. You should go see Brijuni and Split. Lovely and different.

  2. Thanks for sharing. The bit about packing up and moving on…well I am sure you know I get that all too well.
    Perhaps someday we will follow in your tracks.
    Keep posting.
    Traveling with you from my sofa.

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